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Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Arctic Char and Homemade Tartare.



Well, its a weekday and you fancy something kinda special, but not too much hard work either. Something light and substancial, to contrast with the hearty casserole of the season, but not too fiddly either. I'm pretty much sure fish is your answer here because, despite the wailing of the new Birds Eye bake-in-a-packet range, fish is not hard too cook and need only take minutes under the grill to be mouth-wateringly delicate and sweet. For me, its just perfect after a tiring day.
So here it is, my humble fish supper for your appreciation.

Arctic Char with Homemade Tartare Sauce, Accompanied by Baked Mushrooms in a bag
Serves 2, depending on your fish.
Ingredients
2 Whole Prepared Arctic Char (Quite a meaty trout sized fish,could be substituted for any similar sized fish you desire. How about trout?)
Salt
A few handfuls of mushrooms (whichever varieties you have to hand. Supermarket bought buttons will work just as well as foraged Puffballs)
2 fair sized slices of prosciutto
A splash of white wine or Vermouth or similar
A few sprigs of each - Bay, Thyme, Rosemary, Fennel
Olive oil
A little feathery fennel top, to garnish

For the Tartare
2 egg yolks
290ml vegetable oil
A good pinch of mustard powder
A glug of white wine vinegar
Seasoning
A good mix of pickled items, finely diced (For instance capers and gherkins,ideally something garlicky too-if not add a crushed clove)


1-Score the sides of your fish, rub with a little seasoning and set aside. (This draws out the water in the skin of the fish and will hopefully make for a crispier skin). Preheat your grill. Preheat the oven to 200 Celsius.
2-Start to make the sauce. Mayonnaise is very, very easy to make quickly and I find it a little odd that jars of the stuff sell so well in supermarkets). Put your egg yolks, mustard powder and seasoning into a blender. (or a bowl with a whisk standing nearby if you're feeling energetic). Give it a good mix.
3-Drop by drop add the oil, making sure that each drop is well incorporated before adding the next. As more oil is incorporated you can get more and more liberal with your drops, progressing onto glugs, splashes and dousings toward the end. Mid way through this process the mix will get very thick and hard to whisk, at this point add the vinegar to thin it.
4-Now we have mayonnaise, all you have to do to get tartare is add your pickled all sorts and mix thoroughly.
5-Ok, now for the fungi. Cut two pieces of greaseproof paper about A3 size. Lay your prosciutto just off center, pile mushrooms on top of that and add your herbs to the pile too. For easy removal when the bag is opened, you could tie your herbs into a little bundle with some string. As for the size the mushrooms should be cut to, I'd recommend a button could be quartered. Drizzle with a little olive oil.
6-Fold your bag up so all the edges, but one are sealed. (you could tie the or brush them with beaten egg on the seams.) Into this opening pour a splash of white wine or vermouth, then seal the bag.
7-Bake for 15 minutes at 200 Celsius.
8-Drizzle your fish with olive oil and perhaps sneak some herbs into its belly. Stick them under the grill when the mushrooms have had five minutes. For a one person fish I would say five minutes per side, but don't follow that religiously. The fish are right in front of you, take then out now and again, have a look by opening up the fish at its thickest part with a knife. If its done its done, if it needs a little more time, give it some. With the grill, you are completely in control.
9-Serve one fish each with one mushroom bag each and a pot of tartare. Leave the mushrooms in their bag, so that the diner can open the little puffed up package themselves. The aromatic steam that rushes out is beautiful.



There it is then, a light, easy, quick weekday supper for two. What could be better? The flavours are distinct yet have delicacy and it makes a change to the heavy comfort food of the season. If you'd prefer more greenery it works very well with simple defined sides. Try steamed purple sprouting for a twinge of iron, or sauteed leeks for a little kick.

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